PACK 100 PINEWOOD DERBY RACE
All Cub Scouts are encouraged to make a car to enter the race and there will be a family division (Outlaw class) in which adults and siblings can enter a car. Awards will be given for race winners and for craftsmanship.
Help Is Needed
Adults are asked to bring extra weights, tools and other supplies to help their own scout and other scouts with any modifications we will need to make on cars before the race.
PINEWOOD DERBY RACE RULES
· Cars must be made from official Boy Scout Kit (Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit) that was handed out this fall. If you need a kit, we have many extras. Cars should be constructed from this kit only. Do not purchase a pre-cut model car from Hobby Lobby or any other hobby shop. Use the block of wood and the parts from the kit. Paint, stickers, plastic drivers, and other design features may be added to your car according your own design, as long as the car specs are still met.
· Everyone builds a new car each year. They should be built by the Cub Scouts themselves, with some guidance. Any technical assistance should be fully explained to the Cub Scout so that he can use that knowledge on future projects. No one can race a car he didn't help build, no one can race a car from a previous year, and no one can enter more than one car. Because it is difficult to establish how much help was given in building the car, our Pack has a separate Pinewood Derby Race for adults.
· Width:
o Not to exceed 2 ¾ inches wide.
· Length:
o Not to exceed 7 inches long.
· Weight:
o Finished car cannot weigh more than 5 ounces (141.75 grams).
o Note: all scales weigh differently, so allow for a margin of error.
o All weights must be firmly attached.
o No loose materials of any kind are permitted in or on the car.
o The car may be hollowed out and built up to the maximum weight by the addition of material, provided it is securely built into the body. Loose weight even though securely inside car is not legal.
o Official scale is not to be questioned.
· Wheel Placements:
o Minimum distance between the insides of the wheels shall not be less than 1 ¾ inches.
o Distance between the front and back axles must be 4 1/8 inches (wheelbase). This is the original groove placement on the Pinewood Derby Kit.
· Ground Clearance:
o Minimum clearance under the car must 3/8 inch.
o So the car will not rub on the track guide
· Wheels & Axles:
o Washers, bearings, and bushings are prohibited.
o Only wheels and axles provided with official kit will be allowed.
o Wheels must have flat running surfaces with a minimum flat smooth surface of 5/16 inch.
o Grooving, rounding or ridging of wheels is prohibited.
o Ridges on the outside of wheels need to be visible.
o Hubcaps packed with lubricant are not permitted.
· Springing:
o The car shall not ride on any type of springs.
· Details:
o Details such as steering wheel, driver, plastic motors, decals and painting are allowed as long as these details are securely attached and do not exceed the maximum length, width and weight specifications.
· Attachments:
o The car must be free-wheeling with no starting devices.
· Lubrication:
o Only dry powdered graphite or BSA approved powdered lubricant is allowed.
· Inspection:
o Each car must pass inspection by the Official Inspection Committee before it may compete.
o If, at registration, a car does not pass inspection, the owner will be informed of the reason for failure, and will be given time within the official weigh-in time period to make the adjustment. After final approval, cars will not be re-inspected unless the car is damaged in handling or in a race.
o The inspectors have the right to disqualify those cars who do not meet these specifications.
o The decision of the inspection committee is final.
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
Check the grooves to ensure that each is at a perfect 90-degree angle to the car body. A car with untrue axles tends to steer to one side or the other, causing it to rub up against the side of the lane strip, slowing it down. You can check the groove angles by using a square, a protractor, or even a piece of paper.
Lay square on block to check for squareness and alignment of slot.
Use two hacksaw blades side by side to redress the slots. Use the edge of the square as a guide.
Choose your favorite design, then mark the block accordingly (See Figure 1). Lay car body on the side, then gently drive the axles into the grooves within 1/4" of the axle head. Axles should fit tight. With a pair of pliers, remove axles by pulling and turning gradually (See Figure 2). Repeat on the other side of block. Most of the cutting can be done with a hand saw, then finished with sandpaper (See Figure 3). Details such as fins and scoops should be added now. Any additional weight needed to achieve a total of 5 ounces should be built into the car.
NOTE: If the car design you chose has a narrow body, make sure the area where the axles are inserted into the body remains 1-3/4" wide, or wheels will not fit over the guide strips of the track.
PAINTING AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Apply several coats of sanding sealer; then sand entire car with a fine-grade sandpaper. Give model at least two coats of fast drying paint, in your choice of color. When paint is completely dry sand with a fine sandpaper, apply a final coat of paint and allow to dry thoroughly. To finish, rub entire car with a rubbing compound. Details such as windshield, driver, racing numbers, etc., should be added now. For a super finish apply a coat of auto wax and rub to a high gloss. Pre-lubricate axles and wheels using, dry powdered lubricant. Do not use regular oil or silicone spray, since it may soften the plastic. Slide wheels over axles, then gently tap them into the car body grooves with a 1/4" dowel or similar object to within 1/32" of car body. (See Figure 4). Make sure wheels turn freely.
Due to many requests we have eliminated the cockpit section in the Pinewood Derby block to allow for more designs.